Eh Toi!

Photo: Rosie Ledet, her awesome guitarist, and her 69-year-old father-in-law on washboard.

Just returned from the first weekend of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival -- and what a great weekend it was. The weather cooperated: low to upper 80s and no rain all weekend.

Compared to last year, things are a bit different. Most of the watermarks have disappeared. Houses have been repainted or razed. Many buildings are boarded up, but the stinking heaps of detritus that were there last year are gone now. A few FEMA trailers squat in yards or driveways. In the Quarter, more than a few of the places I wandered past last year are now closed.

Music lovers turned out in droves, and the place was packed all three days.

Day One. I arrived at the fairgrounds in time to see the last couple of Eddie Bo's songs, then wandered around, caught an amazing performance by the Creole Wild West Indians, a bit of the Amazones: Women Drummers of Guinea, and grabbed a bite to eat. Caught the last two songs by the Subdudes, and was too lazy to walk all the way across the grounds for Dr. John, so I stayed put at the Gentilly Stage for T-Bone Burnett. What a treat! His band included Marc Ribot on guitar and Jim Keltner on drums. They pretty much tore the place up. Next, I blew off Van Morrison in favor of Lucinda Williams, and didn't regret it one bit. Lucinda's show at the House of Blues in the Quarter the following night was sold out, so I'm glad I got to see her.

Day Two. More wandering around and eating to start, then a few songs by Cajun accordionist Ray Abshire. Hung around the same stage for the New Orleans Klezmer All-Stars. Scampered over the the Blues Tent to catch Tab Benoit, but couldn't even get near the place. Back to the Gentilly Stage for Calexico, and the best performance of the day. Calexico's mariachi-meets-Spaghetti Western sound had thousands smiling and dancing, and if they didn't know them, many new fans. Blew off Rod Stewart (thanks for the tip, Kev!) in favor of Norah Jones, who was mellow but superb. Unfortunately, she reminded me of my ex-wife. She was joined by local 21-year-old genius Trombone Shorty to join her on a song, and finished up with a Tom Waits song as I exited.

Day Three. Caught a couple of songs by local acts JD Hill & the Jammers and Vivaz (both excellent!), then saw Jean Knight & her Knights of Rhythm. Yes, that Jean Knight, who had a hit with "Mr. Big Stuff" back in '71. Then back to the Gentilly Stage for the New Orleans Social Club. The Social Club is a loose affiliation of New Orleans all stars, including keyboardist Ivan Neville (Cyril was a no-show), guitarist Leo Nocentelli, Meters bassist George Porter, Jr., pianist Henry Butler (a-farking-mazing), keyboardist Wilson "Willie Tee" Turbinton, vocalist John Boutte (who sang a blistering version of Annie Lennox's "Why"), and a host of guest stars, including Dr. John, Irma Thomas. Needless to say, this bunch was sizzling. They covered John Fogerty's "Fortunate Son" and the place went wild. Irma Thomas was up next on that stage, but I reluctantly left to get a bite to eat and satisfy my necrophiliac curiosity about Jerry Lee Lewis. The place was jammed, so I only got to see the Killer sing one line of "Whole Lotta Shakin' Going On", then set his bottom on the keyboard, and dodder offstage. Last Man (Barely) Standing, I guess. Hustled back over to the Fais Do Do stage to catch the last couple of Gillian Welch's numbers, which she performed with her partner, David Rawlings (and his 1935 Epiphone gee-tar). Standard Gillian faire (meaning really, really good) until they absolutely scorched the earth with a cover of "Jackson". Woo. Up next: Rosie Ledet & The Zydeco Playboys, and the highlight of the weekend for me. Rosie's a little spitfire who plays accordion, with her husband on bass, her nephew on drums, and her 69-year-old father-in-law on washboard. This guy is only three years younger than Jerry Lee Lewis, but it's obvious who is going to live longer. These guys literally ripped up the place and had the crowd going wild -- well worth missing Bonnie Raitt playing with her band and the New Orleans Social Club.

This morning. Was wandering around the Quarter and saw Keith Streng of the Fleshtones with his wife shopping for souvenirs on Decatur Street. Chaaaa!